Schaerbeek Beer Museum

This small museum started in 1993 as a private initiative by 15 locals. Run by volunteers, and a bit off the beaten track, this museum is a must for beer lovers. The quiet place has a steady drip feed of visitors, who receive an individual tour from the museum staff. I’m met by Paula who speaks of their group as ‘15 fools’ but obviously does not regret to be one of them. Another of the 15 is a councillor in the municipality, who arranged that the museum could be housed in an abandoned school.

Paula has plenty of stories to tell about the history, folkore and manufacturing of beer. For example the story that during the Middle Ages, water quality was not good. Beer went however through extensive processing, and it was observed that beer drinkers were healthier and more resistant against epidemics than water drinkers. Our medieval ancestors attributed this to the hand of God, which explains the monastic beer tradition.

The museum has 1,500 bottles on display of Belgian beers - past & present (a feat, since there are 1,163 beers in Belgium currently available, according to the latest count). This diversity comes from the Belgian tradition to mix herbs and fruits with beer, Paula tells me. This is very different in Germany, where much stricter regulation exists of what ingredients can be used for making beer.
In one of the museum’s rooms, a pub from the early 1900s is reconstructed. Before the 18th century, few people could afford to frequent pubs, but during the industrial revolution, the pub became the living room for the workers. At the peak, in the middle of the 19th century, Belgium had over 80,000 pubs, one for every 42 citizens - a pub in every street.

The museum naturally includes Trappist and Monastery Beers. But while the Trappist denomination is well defined and protected, this is much less for monastery beers, which can be anything between monasteries brewing their own beer in the Trappist style to industrial breweries producing beers using the name of a monastery that once existed.

The museum received about a few thousand visitors per year. According to Willy (Paula’s husband), a lot of the visitors come by word of mouth. A visit takes about an hour and includes a degustation. This is a visit for the tourist wishing to explore unique sites and meet the locals. Since each visit is unique, you can visit more than once - you’ll never know which member of the fifteen you’ll meet, and which stories of Belgian’s 1,500 beers he chooses to share.

Practical
The Schaerbeek Beer Museum is open Wednesday & Saterday afternoons. Opening times are a bit limited, but understandable for a volunteer initiative currently active for almost 20 years. The location is a few kilometers outside the center of Brussels. When you make the effort, visit also the nearby Josaphat Park.

BELvue museum

BELvue is a museum about the history of Belgium. If you’re interested in a young state in which 2 very different cultures co-exist peacefully, Belgium is a model to study. If you plan to visit with children, make sure they are in their teens, and preferrably a bit precocious. This is not a frivolous museum.

Through 9 rooms, BELvue tells the history of Belgium, from its origin in 1830. Before that, Belgium had been 15 years under the reign of Willem I, King of The Netherlands. If he had been a better diplomat, one wonders what might have been - the territory currently known as Belgium could still be part of The Netherlands. On the other hand, maybe it was just a matter of time for the Catholic Southern Netherlands to separate from its reformed northern neighbours. In any case, all it took to establish Belgium was a relatively soft revolution and benevolent support from some neighbour countries, who preferred to have 2 weaker states in the heart of Europe.
Early in its independence, an industrial revolution started, based on coal, steel and textile - all industries that are nowadays a shadow of what they once were in Belgium. The first railway construction in Europe happened in Belgium (after UK). Fortunes were made. Iron & steel products developed, and their use in construction helped to spur the Art Nouveau movement in architecture. The new wealthy families commissioned the construction of small palaces, a few hundred of which still remain in Brussels today.

Before 1914, Belgium organised 7 world fairs, with an 8th one following in 1958. Not too many countries will have 8 world fairs on their record. One could indulge in speculation of what could have been, if Belgium’s development had not been interrupted by 2 World Wars.

The history of Belgium is also the history of the monarchy. There is Leopold I, our first king, taking control of a young state with determination. Or Leopold II, our second and probably greatest king, but suffering from a touch of megalomania. He was succeeded by Albert I, a popular and admired king. Then we have Leopold III, the most controversial king, not moving fast enough with the times. His son, Boudewijn I is remembered for adding a humanitarian and ethical dimension to the monarchy. The current king is Albert II, who may be our last king according to some, but let’s avoid such speculation.

Belgium is a country of internal tensions. As many countries, Belgium experienced feminist and socialist movements. But in addition, it had a Flemish emancipation and strong opposition between the Church / Catholics and liberals. All these forces gave rise to a proliferation of parties, with no single party holding anything near to a majority vote. This decentralisation of power however gives the country a degree of stability that it would not have otherwise.

Today, Belgium exists as a modern state, with one of the most comprehensive social security systems on this planet. Judged by its Human Development Index, it’s one of the more live-able countries in the world. In fact, if it weren’t for the weather, things would be close to perfection. But the fact that Belgians can complain about the weather almost daily saves so much on therapy.

Belgium is becoming a very thin state, ceding much of its sovereignty upwards to international organisations, and downward to its regions and communities. In this context, preparing the ground for a sixth constitutional reform, which left Belgium 1.5 years without a government, may prove to be a storm in a teacup.

Practical
The BELvue museum consists of 949 exhibits, which are explained in sequence through a guide in multiple languages. You can easily spend a couple of hours to see all, but 1.5 hours suffice for a good overview. There is a great museum shop, as well as a cafetaria ‘Green Kitchen’ which serves only fresh products. You can just visit BELvue, or combine with a visit to the remains of the Coudenberg Palace.

Marc Sleen Museum

When visiting the Belgian Comic Strip Center, make sure that you cross the street and enter the Marc Sleen Museum. Through the combination ticket, for a mere 1 €, this visit is one of the good deals in town.

In this intimate museum, you can experience the life and work of Marc Sleen through his creation Nero, very well known in Belgium and especially Flanders, but relatively unknown abroad.

Yet the museum is visited by Belgians and foreigners alike, tells me Brigitte Delmeire at the reception. I guess many can identify with Nero, the archetypical self-deprecating anti-hero who provides an insight into the Belgian psyche.
Comparing Marc Sleen with Hergé, the Godfather of the Belgian comic strips, there could not be a larger difference. Sleen produced 217 albums almost single-handedly, establishing a world record for the longest series by the same author. Hergé had an army of collaborators to produce a mere 23 albums. Hergé’s albums were very well researched, whereas Sleen often worked on several albums at once. Still Sleen managed to refer regularly to current affairs.

Brussels makes regular appearances in the albums of Nero, and a special exhibition currently draws attention to these scenes. There is also a Brussels walk, developed by museum staff, that takes you around these sites, with drawings to compare them to.

In short, the Marc Sleen Museum is compact. It can be visited quickly in half an hour, but you could as well spend a whole morning or afternoon if you want to see and read all. There is a reading room with Nero comics, which are - unfortunately - no longer in print. In combination with the Comic Strip Center, the visit is a good deal. In contrast to the center, which presents the breadth of the Belgian comic strip movement and can be overwhelming at times, the Marc Sleen Museum can be a breath of fresh air with its focus on a single author, nicely presented.

Belgian Comic Strip Center

A visit to the comic strip center can be many things - a journey back to childhood, a discovery of a new medium, a rediscovery of a hobby, or an encounter with the authors behind well-known heroes.

The visit is suitable for all ages. It certainly helps to already know some of the heroes on display, and most visitors may recognise at least the most famous ones, such as the Smurfs, Lucky Luke and Tintin.

Meet the authors. For example Jijé, one of the Godfathers of the Belgian comic strip movement. A jack of all trades - painter, sculptor, engraver, he was also a prolific comic strip artist, with series such as Jerry Spring, Blondin & Cirage or Tanguy & Laverdure. You’ll meet many more authors during the visit, masters and their disciples who later move on to create their own following.
Meet the heroes. For example Lucky Luke, whose 38 albums sold 300 million copies. Or the Smurfs, for which Hanna-Barbara produced 300 medium-length cartoons.

Comic strips reached their public initially through newspapers, but later as well through dedicated comic strip magazines and albums. Comic strip magazines, such as Spirou/Robbedoes, Tintin/Kuifje and later A Suivre/Wordt Vervolgd became popular in the 60s amd 70s. Spirou produced 110,000 pages from 130 authors during its lifetime. But now these magazines have all but disappeared in favour of albums.

As a young medium, the comic strip evolves. In its initial days, comic strips were used for evangelism by religion. Comic strips are a good medium for didactical purposes, especially for history lessons. Some modern strips bring a political message, more often than not through satire.

Genres proliferate, such as the historic strip (Alex), the animal strip (Chlorophyl), science-fiction (Blake & Mortimer), police comics (Gil Jourdan), fantasy (Thorgal), and so on.

Practical
The Belgian Comic Strip Center is in the heart of Brussels, within a short walking distance from all the main tourist spots in Brussels.

In summary
A well-documented museum, with a significant offering on its subject, in an Art Nouveau building by Victor Horta. A full visit takes 2 hours. Good facilities on-site, especially a comic strip shop with a large offering as well as a restaurant were you can try Belgian and international cuisine. The visit is correctly priced, especially in combination with the Marc Sleen Museum across the street.

Visit also:

1. Marc Sleen Museum
2. Hergé Museum
3. Comic strip walls in Brussels
4. Comic strip walls in Antwerp

Museum of the National Bank of Belgium

The Museum of the National Bank of Belgium started as an exhibition in 2002 (when the euro was introduced) but has meanwhile developed into a permanent museum receiving 35,000 visitors per year. If you’re interested in money as a cultural phenomenon, you can learn about it here in 4 main themes:

• the history of money (and of the National Bank)
• the role of the National Bank, i.e. to preserve the value of currency
• how financial markets function
• money as a cultural phenomenon (and not as the source of all evil)

Through 15 rooms, in a didactic way, the museum presents money in all its forms, its role in the economy, the mechanism of inflation and the role of the central bank.

The history of money goes back almost 5000 years. Early forms of payment were quite less practical than electronic currency today. And you may appreciate the value of a single currency more when learning that no less than 5 currencies were in circulation in Florence during the Renaissance.
The museum introduces the various types of money, from its primitive forms such as Yap stones and clay tables, over metal coins to modern forms such as fiduciary and electronic money. There is a great presentation on how modern money derives its value, which ultimately comes down to public trust.

Very interesting is the section on economic policy, in particular inflation. What causes inflation? Why is inflation inherent to our monetary system? How can it be controlled?

On a less serious note, there is a display on inflation through the last century. A display shows how the prices of basic products such as bread, butter and beer have evolved since the 19th century. Though prices have increased constantly, the price ratio of these basic goods has remained relatively stable. However, a daily wage, expressed in number of breads (or number of beers) has increased significantly.

For children and adults, there is a quiz about money with 30-something questions. From trivia about the use of the word money in songs to more serious questions, this quiz combines entertainment with education.

Practical
For a quick visit, count about an hour. However, an in-depth, full visit could easily take 2 hours. The location is central Brussels, a few 100 meters from Grand Place. Address and opening times can be found at www.nbbmuseum.be. Visits during the weekend are free of charge.

Rating
This is a very didactic museum presenting money in all its facets. The visit is good value for money. Displays are well presented and available in multiple languages.

Huy Fortress - Museum of Resistance and Concentration Camps

Huy Fortress was constructed by the Dutch in 1818, not many years before Belgian’s independence. It’s a monumental building dominating the city of Huy. The fortress and the city are a worthwhile destination in their own right. Its hosting of the Museum of Resistance and Concentration Camps makes the trip only more worthwhile.

This is undeniably a building for military purposes, but during the World War 2, it was used mainly as a prison.
The museum evokes one of Europe’s most miserable periods, and it evokes it well. This is not a visit to lift your spirits.

Room after room in the huge facility tells the story of World War 2. The pre-war conditions in Germany, the rise of fascism in Germany, Italy and Spain, the repression of minorities, life in the concentration camps and the resistance movement in Belgium and Northern France.

The story is mainly told through pictures, newspaper articles, pamphlets and other documents from the era. There is little commentary - it is left to the visitor to form an opinion.

Practical Information
The museum can be accessed by walk or by cable car. The entrance by walk is however not challenging, and provides a nice route with some photo opportunities. Once in the museum, you can spend easily a few hours if you want to see all, though you may find that you can only bear so much.

The visit is good value for money. This is a well documented museum in an impressive architectural building. The exhibits could be presented a bit better (with better lighting). Facilities are Spartan, but the panorama on top makes up for that.

Nearby visits:

• City of Huy, with a boat trip on the Meuse river
• Modave Castle - a medieval castle partially destroyed and rebuilt in the 17th century, belonging to the Major Heritage of Wallonia.
• Jehay Castle - a 16th century castle with an architecture unique in Europe.

Hergé Museum

Few Belgians will disagree that Tintin and its creator deserve their own museum. Meeting such high expectations must have been a challenge, but the Hergé Museum does not disappoint.

This museum is very well organised and presents the microcosmos created by Hergé through a series of drawings, photos and videos, all projected into a chronicle of the 20th century.

First of all, the visit gives insight into the life and career of Hergé. A childhood spent mostly in Belgium created a thirst for travelling that Hergé passed on to his creation. Coming from a bourgeois environment, the first albums tended to repeat national stereotypes, but as Hergé became a seasoned traveler himself, Tintin’s view of the world became more nuanced.With Tintin, Hergé also helped to create the ninth art form, the comic book, which was in full development around the mid of last century. The expression of movement and emotion in comic books was one of the major contributions of Hergé.

Hergé did not work alone, but was surrounded by a team of professionals. Creating an album that withstands the test of time requires attention to detail. Doing this 23 times is no minor feat. Hergé’s team included major comic book artists such as Edgar Jacobs and Bob De Moor, who later created their own series.

There are 227 other characters in Tintin, each with a carefully selected name and personality. Many of these have there own spotlight in the museum, such as Captain Haddock, the Thom(p)sons and Professor Calculus.

In short, this is a well organised museum, hosted in an award-winning architectural setting. The visit with audio guide is user-friendly and very good value for money. You can easily spend a few hours here. To finish your visit, there are good facilities, such as a museum shop, a spacious lobby where you can take a rest, or a restaurant. An absolute must for comic book fans.

More reviews on this museum:

• Excellent review & pictures at Wayfaring travel guide
• A few pictures to give an impression of the architectural setting
• Musée Hergé - It's More Than Tintin

PS - a new Tintin movie by Steven Spielberg will be launched this autumn. The Belgian release is also the world premiere on October 26, 2011.

PS2 - on a fine day, you can conclude your visit by having a drink or meal on the Grand Place which is just a short walk from the musem.

What to do if you have (only) a few hours to kill in Brussels?

This question was asked on Virtual Tourist by a couple having 5 hours in Brussels during a long stop-over at the airport.

Assuming it is your first visit to Brussels, and if you have the energy, it would be a pity to remain at the airport with so many things to do nearby.

There is a train from the airport to Central Station which takes 16 minutes and runs 4 times per hour. With a half hour journey each way, and one hour of buffer time, this leaves 3 hours in Brussels.
If the weather is good - always a factor in Belgium - you can do the classics. Within half a km from the Central Station, you have the Grand Place, Royal Galleries, The Sablon Church & Square, The Royal Palace, the Cathedral, and so on. Lots of photo opportunities.

Or you can take one of the city walks. There is a walk around Brussels' 40 comic strip walls, which takes you all over the town. You will not be able to complete it in 3 hours, but at least try a good portion. There is also a walk around the European Institutions and there are several walks organised around Brussels' few 100 Art Nouveau buildings.

If time allows, take a break and have a waffle at Cafe du Vaudeville in de Royal Galleries, or a beer in the Roy d'Espagne on Grand Place.

If the weather is not good (not a small probability), go to Mont des Arts and visit for example the Magritte museum. Combine it later on with above waffle or beer.

To prepare for your short stay, make sure to get a copy of the Pocket Guide for Brussels. It’s available from VisitBrussels, Koningsstraat 2-4, 1000 Brussels. It comes packed with information and maps, including above-mentioned walks.