Through 9 rooms, BELvue tells the history of Belgium, from its origin in 1830. Before that, Belgium had been 15 years under the reign of Willem I, King of The Netherlands. If he had been a better diplomat, one wonders what might have been - the territory currently known as Belgium could still be part of The Netherlands. On the other hand, maybe it was just a matter of time for the Catholic Southern Netherlands to separate from its reformed northern neighbours. In any case, all it took to establish Belgium was a relatively soft revolution and benevolent support from some neighbour countries, who preferred to have 2 weaker states in the heart of Europe.
Early in its independence, an industrial revolution started, based on coal, steel and textile - all industries that are nowadays a shadow of what they once were in Belgium. The first railway construction in Europe happened in Belgium (after UK). Fortunes were made. Iron & steel products developed, and their use in construction helped to spur the Art Nouveau movement in architecture. The new wealthy families commissioned the construction of small palaces, a few hundred of which still remain in Brussels today.
Before 1914, Belgium organised 7 world fairs, with an 8th one following in 1958. Not too many countries will have 8 world fairs on their record. One could indulge in speculation of what could have been, if Belgium’s development had not been interrupted by 2 World Wars.
The history of Belgium is also the history of the monarchy. There is Leopold I, our first king, taking control of a young state with determination. Or Leopold II, our second and probably greatest king, but suffering from a touch of megalomania. He was succeeded by Albert I, a popular and admired king. Then we have Leopold III, the most controversial king, not moving fast enough with the times. His son, Boudewijn I is remembered for adding a humanitarian and ethical dimension to the monarchy. The current king is Albert II, who may be our last king according to some, but let’s avoid such speculation.
Belgium is a country of internal tensions. As many countries, Belgium experienced feminist and socialist movements. But in addition, it had a Flemish emancipation and strong opposition between the Church / Catholics and liberals. All these forces gave rise to a proliferation of parties, with no single party holding anything near to a majority vote. This decentralisation of power however gives the country a degree of stability that it would not have otherwise.
Today, Belgium exists as a modern state, with one of the most comprehensive social security systems on this planet. Judged by its Human Development Index, it’s one of the more live-able countries in the world. In fact, if it weren’t for the weather, things would be close to perfection. But the fact that Belgians can complain about the weather almost daily saves so much on therapy.
Belgium is becoming a very thin state, ceding much of its sovereignty upwards to international organisations, and downward to its regions and communities. In this context, preparing the ground for a sixth constitutional reform, which left Belgium 1.5 years without a government, may prove to be a storm in a teacup.
Practical
The BELvue museum consists of 949 exhibits, which are explained in sequence through a guide in multiple languages. You can easily spend a couple of hours to see all, but 1.5 hours suffice for a good overview. There is a great museum shop, as well as a cafetaria ‘Green Kitchen’ which serves only fresh products. You can just visit BELvue, or combine with a visit to the remains of the Coudenberg Palace.